Israel is a country with an extreme amount of conflict, but when you spend time in Tel Aviv it almost feels as if all of that disappears. Tel Aviv is home to a youthful population, emerging industries, and extreme amounts of culture. When I walked the streets of Tel Aviv, I felt the connection between my faith and who I am outside of my Judaism. It is a vastly alive city with amazing food and a lively atmosphere. Tel Aviv feels like a bubble, one that I hope to immerse myself in again.
In 2018 my family went to Israel to learn about a country where Jewish people like us would always be welcome, and when I stepped foot in Tel Aviv I felt like it was a physical interpretation of how Judaism can be seen in connection with modern life. Jews in Tel Aviv are generally more religiously tolerant and tolerant to all sexual orientations than in the rest of Israel. As you walk from the main plazas to tiny streets, you notice that the restaurants and residential buildings have colorful flags and murals painted on them portraying the city’s pride for all its people.
One day we took a walking tour of the most famous graffiti that surrounds the Florentin neighborhood.Many of the buildings in this area were small, maybe three to four stories with flat roofs; it created a true sense of community. We wandered through little alcoves and back streets to find amazing and inspiring artwork.Some had messages of peace or freedom, others were just about pure beauty. One that stood out to me was the mural of the 27 Club, a club of famous people, mostly musicians, who died at 27 (Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Brian Jones, Jimi Hendrix, Amy Winehouse, and others). Their lives were cut short when their careers were taking off and yet they continue to inspire others. At first, I didn't understand why this mural was sitting in the heart of Tel Aviv. I now recognize it was created for inspiration to push residents to get the most out of life, and I think members of the Tel Aviv community have listened.
Adjacent to the graffiti is a vastly different part of the city, Jaffa. The old town has beautiful tanned buildings from the Ottoman empire like St. Peter's Church. Jaffa is historically Arab, not Jewish. it is famous for its Flea Markets, there are open-air markets where the sides are lined with groceries, spices, candy shops, huge bakeries, and of course tourists' tchotchkes. The vendors are screaming at you to look at their products and take something home. This area has improved significantly since the 50s when Jaffa and Tel Aviv came together because of the reinvestment into the landscape of the area. The combination of these two places adds to the integration of different cultural backgrounds into the city. Old Jaffa’s (Yafo) historical significance combines with the rest of Tel Aviv’s modernity to create something magical.
The energy of Tel Aviv truly stands out. When you walk across the beautiful long sandy beaches, people are wading in the water to catch big waves, families and friends are sitting on the beach in big circles laughing and creating memories. They seem as if they do not have a care in the world. The beach is lined with restaurants and the sand is flooded with brightly colored umbrellas and chairs. The integration of the sea and beach with a huge metropolitan area is truly impressive. On Friday nights in Tel Aviv, which is Shabbat/Sabbath, every restaurant is filled with huge tables with families and friends. Tel Aviv residents have taken our religious day of rest and turned it into a time to gather and recap their week. It's magnificent.
I have always struggled with the fact that I am a reformed Jew, I felt as if I was not doing enough with my religion but at the same don’t agree with many of the social constructs that come with being more religious. When I walked through the streets of Tel Aviv it made me recognize that it is not about who prays more, but it is about ensuring that you connect to others who are Jewish and live life with the faith that you have been taught. The Jewish population of Tel Aviv does this to a T, they have found this middle ground between their religion and lifestyle and you can see this through the way the city is designed. Tel Aviv is a fun outgoing city, it is with the mix of the beach and the vibrancy of activity in the streets that I was able to find a piece of my Jewish identity.