With both a mother and a grandmother from former Yugoslavia, the latter of which lives in Sarajevo, I have visited the city practically ever summer. Although I will ultimately view myself as a New Yorker, the Balkan lifestyle will always been a significant part of my upbringing. My experiences in Sarajevo and its surrounding Balkan countries combined with my mother's personal stories of the war and how she's experienced the changes of the region, has made me realize how rich the city's culture truly is. As a tourist, the beautiful landmarks and palpable kindness of the locals will have you completely enamored, but as someone who has been educated in the complicated history of Bosnia (and more generally Yugoslavia), I see Sarajevo as a quintessential model of urban resilience.
When I visit Sarajevo, there are always a few urban features that strike me every single time. One of these is the architectural diversity of the bridges that cross the Miljacka River. From the modern and sleek design of the Festina Lente Bridge to the rustic and traditional look of the Latin Bridge, each bridge has its own unique charm and character. The view from each of these bridges is breathtaking, with the river winding through the city and the mountains in the background. The mass of pigeons that always seem to be around the town square also never fails to put a smile on my face. As a New Yorker, the presence of pigeons reminded me of home, but what struck me most was how friendly the locals always were towards these birds. They would feed the birds bits of bread and even allow them to perch on their shoulders. It was heartwarming to see the kind disposition of the people in Sarajevo, something that is unfortunately not always present in NYC.
Religion is also a prominent feature in Sarajevo, with the city being home to many religious landmarks such as the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and the Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel. It is always fascinating to see the diversity of religions and how they intersect with the bustling tourism in the city, particularly through the story of the Old Jewish Cemetery, which had fallen into disrepair during the Bosnian War but had been restored through the efforts of the local community. Traveling around Sarajevo is also fairly easy with the tram system and high taxi accessibility, both of which offer great views of the city.
One of the most memorable experiences I had in Sarajevo was exploring the sloping neighborhoods on Trebević Mountain. The views from the top were breathtaking, with the city spreading out before me like a patchwork quilt. The neighborhoods themselves were charming, with winding streets and traditional architecture that gave the impression of being transported back in time. No trip to Sarajevo would be complete without my indulgence of the delicious Balkan cuisine. I am a particular fan of zeljanica, a savory pastry filled with spinach and cheese, as well as burek, a flaky pastry filled with meat and cheese. But my absolute favorite dish was cevapi, grilled minced meat served with flatbread and onions. The food in Sarajevo is hearty and flavorful, reflecting the city's rich cultural heritage.
With all this mind, I cannot help but look at the ruins of the old town, and the devastating war that caused all the destruction. The broken windows, bullet holes, and dilapidated buildings reflect the city's trauma, and how a country as united and disregarded as Yugoslavia can fall apart. This is always in the back of my mind, but when I stop to appreciate all that I love about Sarajevo, I have hope that the city will continue to grow and becomes a place where citizens can feel safe and happy.
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