As I drove along the highway on the outskirts of Doha, I noticed a huge billboard with a simple English message that stood out among the surrounding Arabic advertisements: "The Future is Exciting. Are You Ready?" Looking around, I saw a low, creamy yellow town stretching towards the endless sky, with scattered palm trees wafting water vapor in the pale sunlight. However, looking further, a group of skyscrapers towering into the clouds revealed themselves, like a mirage flashing in the desert. This 7-kilometer-long coastal road recorded Qatar's story of "courage, glory, and transformation" like a huge videotape in the sea breeze of the Persian Gulf.
Having spent my formative years in eastern China, I am enamored with the city of Doha for myriad reasons, which I affectionately refer to as my second home. I always transit through Doha by air to a third nation. In my decades of visiting, I basked in the dynamic ambiance of this metropolis by staying for a few days each time. For many people who visit Doha for the first time, it is like a blank canvas, free from the constraints of history, full of opportunities. However, in my opinion, it is precisely because of Qatar's history and culture that it has acquired its rich colors and textures today.
Marketplace
Souq of Waqif
In Qatar, recognizing and adhering to the ancient desert "tribal" lineage has been a longstanding social form. Before nightfall, when the crowds retreat, I love strolling through the maze-like streets of the traditional Souq of Waqif in Qatar. The atmosphere there transports me back to ancient times, invoking a feeling reminiscent of the stories of "One Thousand and One Nights." I often see elderly people dressed in red clothes pushing carts to deliver goods, men still smoking shisha and playing chess in the meeting rooms along the street, and the corners of the streets filled with Arabian fragrances. I observe veiled girls walking quietly amidst the smoke and handmade vendors sitting quietly in their shops, carving and crafting. The sweet shop in the deep alley still smells of honey from a hundred years ago, and it's a delight to my senses. To me, Doha is a fusion of the past and present from both the East and West, where its heritage is perhaps more vivid than its religion.
Veiled Maiden and Rose in the Desert
Left: Museum of Islamic Art & Right: Qatar National Museum
Modern Qatar is also using various magical buildings to interpret its humanistic concerns. Gazing out the plane's window, I saw a small island intricately linked to the bustling city below, and on that island stood the Museum of Islamic Art. Designed by the late Mr. I.M. Pei, this is the most comprehensive museum in the world dedicated to Islamic culture and art. As I took a ferry ride along the bay, I was awestruck by the Museum of Islamic Art's majestic dome and outer walls. They looked like the alluring eyes of a veiled damsel gazing upon the stream of visitors who flock to this magnificent venue. This captivating spectacle embodies the Qatari way of hospitality: gracious yet unobtrusive. It's a true testament to Qatar's approach of preserving the past while embracing the future, ensuring that the geographic desert does not become a cultural one. During my visit to the Qatar National Museum, I was struck by how it presents the history of Qatar through various mediums, including architecture, music, poetry, scents, and artifacts. While we typically perceive history through written records, the Qatari people observe their identity and heritage through a rich and extensive oral tradition. This postmodernist-style museum designed by Jean Nouvel is particularly stunning, with its inspiration drawn from the desert rose, symbolizing Qatar's cultural roots and modern ambitions.
Skyscrapers and Sunset
Sunset at West Bay of Doha
Wandering in the coastal park, I couldn't help but notice the rapid transformation of Qatar's waterfront along Doha Bay. The skyline now boasts towering skyscrapers, and it reminds me of Manhattan's growth and development. It's a new geographic reality for this small country and a testament to its commitment to progress and modernity. However, this transformation has come at a cost. Several detrimental effects need to be taken into account, including the displacement of families and communities, the exploitation of numerous laborers, predominantly from South Asian nations, and the disturbance of local wildlife, exemplified by the forced relocation of a group of Arabian oryx due to the construction of the Al-Rayyan Stadium.
Doha's transformation and development have been a fascinating journey, full of contradictions and challenges. Despite the rapid modernization and economic changes, the historical memory and cultural attitude are preserved. The social structure, beliefs, and motivation of the Qataris are still shaped by historical and social forces that have been around for thousands of years. As I walk along the streets of Doha, I can see the seamless blend of tradition and modernity, with glimpses of exotic charm, adventurous experiences, and Arab features of the East in every corner of the city.