Taking the “L”

From afar, it’s easy to view Chicago as this large, intimidating monolith of a city, easily dismissed as a crime-ridden and filthy rust belt relic. Having grown up with this mindset, my recent month-long stay in Chicago shocked me by showing just how wrong I was. Nearly every day, I found myself on the “L” on the way to a brand new nook or cranny of the city, each with their own unique architecture, culture, demographics, and general vibe. 

The “L” , short for elevated train, connects a hodgepodge of neighborhoods, from the leafy suburb of Evanston (that's Davis on the Purple Line) to the vibrant Hispanic neighborhood of Pilsen (18th on the Pink Line). Even two adjacent stops can sometimes feel like stepping out of one world into another. Being able to get on a train at Roosevelt in the bustling South Loop neighborhood and meeting friends one stop south in Chicago’s dynamic Chinatown is an experience I have yet to be able to replicate elsewhere. A single line might start in a quaint inner suburb, pass through a rough, working class community, threading between gentrified apartment towers to pass through the Loop (Downtown) before coming out the other side, gliding above derelict lots before ending in an enclave of apartment towers.

The “L” itself also reflects the city that it serves. Trains downtown are packed with a motley crew of c-suite executives, rank and file commuters, and blue collar workers, reflecting the city’s diverse labor force. Stations often feature local art and reflect the communities they serve. Argyle, located in the heart of the North Side’s Viet community, features an elaborate pagoda structure for the station roof. Western on the Brown Line features a large section of the Berlin Wall as a homage to the traditionally German-American neighborhood that it’s located in. Thoughtful station design and community memorials embody and bring to life Chicago’s identity as a diverse and storied city of immigrants.

As the primary method of mass transportation in Chicago for over 100 years, the history of the “L” itself is deeply intertwined with the history of the city itself reflects both historic and modern racial injustices, as well as contemporary efforts to remediate past failings. Much of the Blue Line was constructed in the median of freeways which leveled thriving African-American Neighborhoods, displacing thousands of residents. Continuous disinvestment in infrastructure on Chicago’s South Side led to the closure of many stations and branches on today’s Green line. While many of these stations have, or are in the process of being reopened, the repercussions from policy choices decades ago continue to reverberate in these communities. Even today, much of the tracks in dire need of upgrades are located in Chicago’s poorer West and South sides. Projects including an extension of the Red Line further south are a positive step but more could be done. 

Map of active slow zones on the "L" network, indicating deteriorated or unsafe trackage. Up to 85% of percent of tracks on some branches are in this state.

While the “L” today is commonly derided for being unsafe and unreliable, the truth is that the elevated trains are a lifeline for millions of Chicagoans and are an intrinsic part of life in the city. For many visitors, the “L” is their first experience of Chicago (I still remember the sweeping views of the skyline the first time I rode the Orange Line into the city from Midway). Stations double as community hubs and enable untold economic potential. For some, access to high quality rapid transit is the key to breaking the cycle of poverty within their household, which the “L” provides for the (comparatively) low price of $2.50. With the tap of a card, Chicago’s 178 unique neighborhoods are brought closer together, allowing communities to interact and form the cohesive voice of the city.

Whether it was taking the Green Line to visit friends at UChicago or cafe hopping along the Brown Line, I will always cherish the “L”, as a social service, as a bridge between cultures, and for the memories made along the way. Few people love riding the train but there is something magical about the clickity clack of the rails as the silver steed races along the steel tracks and watches the world pass by. To find the real heart and soul of the city, beyond the deep dish restaurants and the tourist trap that is the bean, all you have to do is take the “L”.