On an average stroll through the bustling downtown of Lisbon or nearby Cascais, you will likely hear about four out of ten conversations in English. Potentially one in German, one in French, and two Portuguese, yet with a thick Brazilian accent. This leaves, on average, only two conversations between passersby in the thick and almost Russian-sounding European Portuguese.
My current hometown for the past three years has been Lisbon, Portugal. I see this city in all of its glory. The vibrant café culture, the glistening sea outside of my house with surfers paddling at all times of the day, the efficient and useful public transit that I particularly appreciate, and the abundance of well-decorated and exceptional restaurants that seem to be always popping up.
To me, Lisbon is perfect. It represents the worldliness and independence that I have gained spending my teenage years there, exploring the winding cobblestone streets and pastel-colored buildings. On a Saturday morning, I love to take the local train from my house with friends into the center of Lisbon, exploring my favorite flea market with screaming vendors and knick knacks everywhere.
However, I realize that my perspective and experience of Lisbon is not one that is universally shared. As an expat, I have a gilded view. Even in the short three years I’ve lived there, the progression has been rapid. Local services are offered first in English and second Portuguese, housing prices have skyrocketed, and hiring is expedited if a candidate has fluency in English. While part of this is due to Portugal’s reliance on a tourist economy and the rich history as well as sunny weather that visitors love, the low cost of living, easy visas, and beauty of the country has invited many expats to settle. I see my parents as they interact with the wide expat community full of Americans, Dutch, French, and British, which is most densely populated in the center of beachside Cascais. Having gone to a school with majority Portuguese who are born and raised in Portugal yet instructed in English, I feel grateful to have been exposed to both groups.
The expats and native Portuguese, for the most part, do not socially mix. Many expats do not even attempt to learn Portuguese, taking ignorant advantage of the welcoming and generous energy of the citizens of Portugal that have adopted English and expat customs wholeheartedly. They spend their days in new-built luxury apartments alongside the coast, enjoying retirement or remote work days. I myself cannot criticize; My family’s move and our lifestyle contributes to the rising prices of regular commodities and the slow erosion of Portuguese culture.
I know that locals and students suffer to afford housing in popular areas of Lisbon, pushed to the modernistic high-rises that were built under the Salazar dictatorship of the mid to late 1900s. They watch as the sea and accessible beaches become farther and farther away, a key part of Portuguese culture not just in cuisine but also pastime. The price of an espresso, forever fixed around 1.20 or 1.80 euro at chain cafés, has gone up. I see the more elderly population of my small town on the outskirts of English-dominated Cascais as they go about daily business and shoppings, their conversations deafened by the banging construction for a new Marriott hotel.
I’ve made an extensive goal to become fluent in Portuguese and use it as much as I can when I’m back home. My friends, who are all Portuguese, speak both languages with me to help with immersion. However, at times I’ll be lost in conversation amongst my friends or feel embarrassed when I can’t properly have a conversation with an elderly person. For all that I try, I see my parents who are learning too slow, hindered by their age. I see expats and tourists everywhere, demanding that people understand their attempts at Spanish (not the same as Portuguese) or not even bothering to learn some simple words to get around. As much as I try to educate myself and be respectful as possible, I realize that my presence in the country will always be a bit of a negative influence when considering the gentrification of Lisboa.
The current fast-paced rate of globalization that is occurring in Lisbon opens opportunities for some, such as the incoming Brazilians who are looking for security and economic stability. It aids the Portuguese economy, opening pathways for young people to work abroad or obtain degrees in English, which are valuable in our growing interconnected world.
I love to see shop owners and locals correct ignorant tourists: Não é Lisbon, é Lisboa. This claim of independence and identity, although small, is vital to steadying the overkill of gentrification.
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